Adventures in Life and Food With JGold

Jervey Tervalon remembers his friend, the beloved Jonathan Gold.

By Jervey TervalonJuly 29, 2018

    I knew you since high school, hanging in your


    Mom’s library at Dorsey


    We both kicked it on Hollywood corners


    Saw the black dude with curlers and shower cap


    Miming to opera records, and them freaks


    And those bookstores


    Remember a lifetime later you started calling


    Me your young friend though I was 2 years older


    And we started to roll through your LA and I learned


    You ate everything.


    We were at another place where Hollywood agents ate.


    And the salmon mousse tasted weird


    salt that wouldn’t dissolve, you said it was fine


    Until you tried it and said, don’t eat it


    That’s not salt, it’s glass; the jar had imploded


    Damn…so weird and on the way home you made


    That right on La Cienega and the police pulled us


    Over and you had those expired tags and went all Falstaff


    On those rollers and one touched his gun and


    Then they towed the truck and we were stuck.


    Under a freeway overpass at midnight in a gangster hood


    Until Laurie rescued us.


    Remember that time I was on the phone with Jinghuan in China


    You noticed police behind us


    Expired tags no thing at all


    Until they ordered me out the truck at gun point handcuffed


    Us both on Beverly Blvd, I politely suggested


    That your were a famous food writer, you whispered


    Don’t bother they won’t listen


    Finally they realized that you weren’t an escaped


    Felon who shot at cops and they let us go to


    That seafood joint


    Remember those tasteless fat olives that were really water-bugs


    And that cold fresh blood soup?


    Remember those not so great crickets and that


    Mescal bar at 4am in Guadalajara where we LA writers


    enjoyed Tapatío generosity


    Remember the Rose Parade at Sumi’s, and that frigid horizontal rain,


    Our brood riding in the truck bed to and fro and there we ate cinnamon


    Rolls while Elise and Leon broke into a break dance then home for


    Black-eyed peas to celebrate the New Year


    Remember Santa Barbara where Jinghuan and


    I were to be married and you were the best man and


    Signed your name where hers was supposed to be and


    The justice of the peace thought we were getting hitched


    Remember awards and books


    And travels and endless brilliant meals at your


    House.


    Remember the travails and happiness of


    Family and friends.


    Remember that you belong to Los Angeles to us All


    In your singular herculean generosity


    We remember it All and we will remember you.


    As we look at Los Angeles and ourselves through Gold eyes.


    And I remember the truth: I never ate better than at your house.

    LARB Contributor

    Jervey Tervalon was born in New Orleans and raised in Los Angeles, and got his MFA in Creative Writing from UC Irvine. He is the author of six books including Understanding This, for which he won the Quality Paper Book Club’s New Voices Award. Currently he is the Executive Director of “Literature for Life,” an educational advocacy organization, and Creative Director of The Pasadena LitFest. His latest novel is Monster’s Chef.

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