BEYONCÉ IS GOLD. Gold like the burnt grass of the Queen's Park Savannah at dry season in Port of Spain, Trinidad's capital city. Like the lamé costumes and corded locks of the masquerade band which, two days before she performed here, strode around this same park to claim top honors during Trinidad's famed yearly carnival. Like the six Grammys she scooped last winter. And gold, too, like her glittered bodysuit and shining skin and hair as she emerged, on the largest concert stage ever built in the Caribbean, to close her triumphant 10-month world tour on this hot island at the bottom of the Antillean chain.
In years past in Trinidad's capital, a steaming oil town wedged between the sea and the island's high Northern mountains, this concert wouldn't have occurred, for religious reasons. In the land of calypso, Fat Tuesday's excesses are meant to connote a Farewell to the Flesh. "No calypsos were heard for the whole 40 days of Lent," the Trinidad-born actor and artist Geoffrey Holder has recalled of his childhood in 1940s Port of Spain. "You heard only sacred music, classical music, 'refined music.'" Now concerns of theosophy had been replaced with more secular worries — over whether people who save for much of the year to afford carnival costumes costing upwards of $500 US, would pony up, just after its end, for tickets to Beyonce's show ranging in cost from $70 U.S. for general admission to $160 for VIP, to — if you wanted to be in real sight of the actual stage — $250 for "VVIP". Many commentators had urged the island's main cell phone company, TSTT (the show's prime underwriters) to withdraw their support for an event they saw as competing directly with carnival. Cultural power brokers like Brian MacFarlane, the masquerade designer of the lamé costumes that this year won him his third straight carnival crown, protested that "that same money could have been spent on promoting our local culture."
The controversy had embroiled the opinion pages for weeks. The promoters were nervous: ticket booths had remained open right up until show time. Despite the presence on the bill of local soca legend Machel Montano, sales had been slow. Yet as dusk approached and show time neared, it seemed clear from the press of people around the Savannah's southwest edge that enough tickets had been sold. Most years in Port of Spain, the day after Ash Wednesday is a time for pee tests and groggy naps. This year, Lent's start found tout out for a last lap around the Savannah.
Groups of brightly dressed young women queued along roads still stained with the paint fromjouvert morning - the pre-dawn celebrations of the Monday before when many of these same people, coated in mud and cocoa powder, stormed the city's center flinging paint on one another. This year like every other, jouvert's "dutty mas" had given way to the "pretty mas" of Carnival Tuesday, with swarms of feathered revelers in sneakers and thongs marching and "wining" (gyrating alone or with a partner) behind trucks belching diesel-exhaust and booming soca in corresponding measure. Now the sneakers had gi...read more